To explain the title of this post, one of my favorite signs that I saw yesterday was literally a sign pointing to "More London". Hard to believe at first, it was explained by the presence of an actual complex entitled "More London" but was still hilariously odd. Apparently its location on the South Bank is in an area that has been recently developing into an 'artsy' part of town, and probably only just acknowledged as a cool part to be in; which I suppose explains the name. But it was still rather strange, and I bet the sign makers had a good laugh about it.
Really, yesterday was a day filled with Shakespeare and wandering. If I wasn't so lazy right now the sentence would be alliterative and sound more awesome, but alas I have not yet had coffee this morning. Anyway, after a leisurely breakfast I set off in the direction of the London Eye, with plans to meet the rest of the group there in two and a half hours; they went to a garden museum that while potentially lovely I simply lacked a great deal of interest in. (on a side note, coffee just arrived! expect a increasingly greater deal of coherence from here on out). As I wandered in the general direction of the Eye, I passed through a great deal of embassies, by a number of churches, saw a place called Shakespeare's Pub that I was tempted to enter until I looked closer and it became clear that nothing recommended they place outside of the name (they probably realized that they could capitalize off the name alone and took no pains with food or atmostphere), and many other enjoyable things. Near Buckingham Palace - a name that itself fills me with some Shakespearean nostalgia - I was mistaken for a local by three American girls who were trying to find the palace. Despite my degree in Geography, after looking at their map I pointed thm in the wrong direction, before realizing a few minutes later after actually seeing the Palace in the opposite direction and hurrying after them to let them know so that they could watch the Changing of the Guard.
Wandering through the adjacent St. James park, I noticed people taking pictures of the squirrels. They weren't particularly cute, but they are very tame because people feed them regularly so they'll eat from your hand. I suppose they were cute, but there was something strange about the outright adoration of squirrels that really, if one is honest, are sort of vermin. Anyway.
On my way out of the park (which is quite lovely) and with about an hour to go before I had to meet my contingent at the Eye, I stumbled upon a small gallery with a 'contemporary textiles' exhibit. It was an extremely colorful and diverse exhibit, from puppets to new style quilts to things that really weren't textiles, like teacups covered in plaster and net. Since I love textiles, fabrics, etc., and because it was the work of contemporary artists and its always interesting to see what's in the minds of artists in was quite nice. Its amazing that even with so many free museums they go even farther and have free gallery exhibits too; although then again, they serve entirely different ends. For example, artists don't sell their works at the museums (can you imagine Monet skulking around and pasting subtle price tags under his works with contact information?).
Meeting at the Eye, we immediately concluded that the line was not worth the ride, and decided lunch was a much more appropriate idea. After lunch we went over to see the Tate,which outside of being a fantastic modern art museum is an absolutely gorgeous building, set in an old re-designed power plant that towers above its surroundings (including the Globe) but which is contrasted with the fragility of the birches that stand in front of it. The interior is equally impressive, split into five (six? seven?) floors on one side and then a massive open exhibition space on other; all the more impressive in its vastness because there was curently no exhibition occupying it. The art includes a room of Soviet propoganda posters, which I quite enjoyed as well as - naturally - a great deal of other interesting and important art.
Then we split up again and I went off to explore the South Bank, or old theater district. First stop was a hundreds of years old market called the Borough Market near London Bridge. Following the warren of streets in the area I came upon it almost by accident, surrounded by small food stores and chiming with the sounds of conversation and a few loud sellers advertising their produce. Artisan food goods and produce, ales, fish, sausage, jams, breads, cheese, sweets, puddings, honey, strawberries........... It was wonderful. Of course I would say that, but it really was. Large, and lively and just excellent. One vendor tried to persuade me to buy some Milwaukee rye (ironically) by telling me that it makes women irresistible to men. Ha.
Next was Southwark Cathedral, which might be my favorite church in London. It was somehow welcoming despite the cold stone (or perhaps because of it, it being a hot day), smelling of incense with light streaming down from its high windows. The cathedral is filled with history, plaques dedicated to various personages and burials for some of the more famous or rich, including a plaque of a doctor that spoke of his fame and skill in somewhat ridiculous terms. One of the burials is of the Bishop who was in charge of helping put together the translation of the bible. And a shrine to Shakespeare (Winedalers, breath a collective sigh here, please). He looks a bit cocky, actually, lounging on his elbow with one knee bent. I spent a few minutes standing in front of it, admiring both the shrine itself and a gorgeous modern stained glass window above him featuring various characters from his plays (including Macbeth and his Lady, Beatrice and Benedict, Malvolio and Sir Toby, Hamlet....).
There was also a bowl for cats left out inside the cathedral. I found this funny. And charming.
After another stop at the market to pick up dinner (goat cheese, bread, strawberries), I decided to walk along to the Thames to the Tower, across the Tower Bridge, then back along the South Bank to the Globe in time for Macbeth. Eating my slightly strange sandwich I strolled along, passing mainly joggers and businessmen off of work. Its a lovely bit of the river, along the North Bank in that area, and not too busy. Then I got near the Tower. The Tower was a mobscene. Probably better than earlier in the day, but just so many tourists! Most eating ice cream, due to the unusually warm weather, some eating KFC or fish and chips, both illustrious foods on offer nearby. The Tower itself is fascinating, although I´ve never taken a tour. And I noticed that there are dolls in the windows of what must be its NW tower, on the lowest level. Why are they there? Is it the giftshop? I may never know.
The Tower Bridge was even worse than the tower for crowds of people, and the South Bank wasn´t much better. Although I doubt many of them were tourists, on that Friday Evening no-one seemed to be able to resist the many bars and pubs of the South Bank (the site of `more London`), overflowing into the surrounding streets. It was lovely weather.
A brief stop off at the Tate, and then it was time for the Globe. For the first time, I sat in the seats above rather than being a groundling (which is fun, but tiring), enjoying the view and the high level of audience participation that they brought to Macbeth (I know, of all plays). It was a stunning performance. Their stage was enhanced by a simple ring hung from the top of the stage that had a curtain and a few lengths of chain suspended from it, rotated mechanically but also by human hands. The costumes were simple but evocative (except the witches, who were terrifying), the staging immaculate, the passion real. I love Shakespeare, and I love the Globe.
There was also a bowl for cats left out inside the cathedral. I found this funny. And charming.
After another stop at the market to pick up dinner (goat cheese, bread, strawberries), I decided to walk along to the Thames to the Tower, across the Tower Bridge, then back along the South Bank to the Globe in time for Macbeth. Eating my slightly strange sandwich I strolled along, passing mainly joggers and businessmen off of work. Its a lovely bit of the river, along the North Bank in that area, and not too busy. Then I got near the Tower. The Tower was a mobscene. Probably better than earlier in the day, but just so many tourists! Most eating ice cream, due to the unusually warm weather, some eating KFC or fish and chips, both illustrious foods on offer nearby. The Tower itself is fascinating, although I´ve never taken a tour. And I noticed that there are dolls in the windows of what must be its NW tower, on the lowest level. Why are they there? Is it the giftshop? I may never know.
The Tower Bridge was even worse than the tower for crowds of people, and the South Bank wasn´t much better. Although I doubt many of them were tourists, on that Friday Evening no-one seemed to be able to resist the many bars and pubs of the South Bank (the site of `more London`), overflowing into the surrounding streets. It was lovely weather.
A brief stop off at the Tate, and then it was time for the Globe. For the first time, I sat in the seats above rather than being a groundling (which is fun, but tiring), enjoying the view and the high level of audience participation that they brought to Macbeth (I know, of all plays). It was a stunning performance. Their stage was enhanced by a simple ring hung from the top of the stage that had a curtain and a few lengths of chain suspended from it, rotated mechanically but also by human hands. The costumes were simple but evocative (except the witches, who were terrifying), the staging immaculate, the passion real. I love Shakespeare, and I love the Globe.
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